You don't need a lift to do the R/R, but you do need a place where you can lay out the parts. I recommend cutting a large piece of clean cardboard or finding an old shirt to lay out the internal parts. Lay these out in the EXACT order they are removed, with the side that goes back in first facing up. They can overlap, but keep them in order! There is NO reason to clean these internal parts. The clutch discs need a film of oil on them anyway, the other parts will not be "dirty", just a file of oil on them as well. Cleaning leads to getting parts mixed up in too many cases! Try to use plastic scrapers on the gasket surfaces of the case and cover. If you must use something sharp, use caution not to knick the aluminum as that can lead to a leak. You need a 30mm socket, a clutch hub holding tool, torque wrench, pair of large snap ring pliers. Most every other tool is fairly common. A set of socket mounted metric hex bits can be quite nice to have.
You do NOT need to remove the water pump. You will have to drain the coolant. That is the worst part of the job! You will need a large container to catch it. I typically just loosen and remove the radiator hose from the water pump. There are other ways, but this is fastest and there will always be a mess anyway. If you don't have a footpeg lowering kit you will have to remove the right side footpeg assembly from the frame. I never tie off the clutch lever to the grip. You do not need to remove the clutch slave cylinder. If you want to reuse the engine oil, get a clean container and drain the oil first. Once it is about done, remove and cover the container and put it out of the way. Put another container under the engine oil sump and leave out the drain plug. There will likely be some coolant get into the sump and mix with a bit of the oil still draining. You don't want that in your clean oil. You won't have to remove engine guards, but skid plates or lower cowlings will have to come off.
To get the 30mm clutch hub nut off you will have to lift up the portion of its flange that is peened down into the transmission shaft groove. You do not have to be perfect with this as the shaft is hardened steel and will lift up this area as it slides over the edge of the spline. Factory torque spec is 105 lbs. ft. when reinstalling these. They always seem to return to the exact location they were removed from ( looking at the peened down area) and since you are peening down the flange again they just are not coming loose. In fact, an air impact wrench is a really nice tool to have to remove and install these.
This is the gear held on by the large snap ring on the back of the basket. When first sliding the basket onto the transmission shaft you have to engage the crank gear to the basket gear. The crank gear is a split, spring loaded design. So, once the basket teeth engage this outer part of the crank gear you then twist the basket to align the split crank gear allowing the basket teeth to full engage. The basket may still not be fully seated. Make sure the oil pump gear is engaged with the baskets oil pump gear. You can stick a finger behind the basket at about the 5 O'clock position and feel the oil pump gear. If it moves gently rotate the basket till you feel the teeth slide together. You do NOT need any force on any item to get them into position. When aligned, they go right in. When tightening the small bolts that hold the pressure plate springs do NOT use a torque wrench! Most owners won't have one good enough to accurately torque 7 lbs ft. Place a small ratchet in the palm of your hand and GENTLY snug them. They have a distinct feel as they bottom out, just a very small movement after that is plenty.
When refilling the radiator use a small dipper ( spray can lid is good ) to fill with. It will only take fluid slowly so take your time. Once it seems full, put the cap on. Then overfill the coolant reservoir about an inch over the full mark. Bring the engine up to operating temperature ( you are done installing the basket and have oil in it, don't you?) and check for any leaks. Then let the engine cool. This will pull coolant from the reservoir to top off the system after the air is purged out. Recheck the reservoir level and you are good. If you take off on the bike without "burping" the cooling system, it could show it is getting hot! There is air in the system! Let it cool and it should be fine.
If you believe in following the Service Manual to the letter, please do so. It is a great tool to have when working on a bike and I will not say it is wrong. The tips above have some shortcuts in them. You are on your own trying them, it is YOUR responsibility to see the job done safely and correctly. I will be adding, maybe subtracting tips from this page as time goes by. Be sure to check the "clutch FAQ" page linked below.
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